Croutons on the Rocks : These Ice-Cold Versions of English Soups Make a Great First Course

In a corner of the English village of Woodstock, Oxfordshire, is Gordon Campbell-Grey’s jewel of a small hotel, The Feathers. It has all one imagines an elegant English hotel to have: chintz-covered sofas, fresh flowers, gracious service--and fabulous food, savory combinations such as pea and pear, carrot and tomato, watercress and apple, parsley and ham, each beautifully served, garnished with caramelized orange zest, croutons, poached apples, crisp bacon.

Our California versions of the two soups--served icy-cold, topped with croutons--make a lovely first course or entree. PEA-AND-PEAR SOUP WITH NUTMEG-FLAVORED CROUTONS

2 peeled and cubed ripe pears

3/4 cup peeled and chopped onion

3/4 cup sliced celery

3/4 cup sliced leeks

1 peeled and cubed potato

cup unsalted butter

4 cups chicken stock

1 bay leaf

2 1/2 cups fresh peas or 16 ounces frozen peas, thawed

Salt

Pepper

1/2 cup whipping cream, optional

Nutmeg-Flavored Croutons

Additional peas, optional

Fresh pear slices, optional

Saute pears, onion, celery, leeks and potato in melted butter until translucent, about 15 minutes. Add stock and bay leaf and simmer partially covered for 20 minutes. Add peas and cook 10 minutes, partially covered, adding salt and pepper to taste. Discard bay leaf.

In food processor, puree soup in small batches until very smooth. Transfer soup to serving bowl. Whisk in cream, if desired. Chill soup, covered, several hours. To serve, float Nutmeg-Flavored Croutons on top and garnish with additional peas and pear slices. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Nutmeg-Flavored Croutons

White bread

Melted butter

Ground nutmeg

For each serving, cut 3 to 4 large croutons. Air-dry croutons several hours. Saute croutons in butter until golden brown. Sprinkle with nutmeg to taste. FRESH CARROT-AND-TOMATO SOUP WITH GARLIC-AND-HERB-FLAVORED CROUTONS

1 cup peeled and chopped onion

3 cups peeled and sliced carrots

2 large ripe tomatoes, seeded and cubed

1 cup sliced celery

1 cup sliced leeks

1 large clove garlic, pressed

cup unsalted butter

1/2 cup tomato puree

1 bay leaf

4 sprigs fresh thyme

5 cups chicken stock

Salt

1 teaspoon light brown sugar

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup whipping cream, optional

Garlic-and-Herb-Flavored Croutons

Fresh carrot curls, optional

Saute onion, carrots, tomatoes, celery, leeks and garlic in butter until translucent, about 15 minutes. Add tomato puree, and saute additional 2 to 3 minutes. Add bay leaf, thyme and stock and simmer, partially covered, for 25 minutes until vegetables are tender, adding salt, brown sugar and pepper to taste. Discard bay leaf and thyme.

In food processor, puree soup in small batches until very smooth. Taste and correct seasoning. Whisk in cream, if desired. Chill soup, covered, several hours or overnight. To serve, float Garlic-and-Herb-Flavored Croutons on top. Garnish with carrot curls, if desired. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Garlic-and-Herb-Flavored Croutons

White bread

Melted butter

1 clove garlic, flattened

Dried thyme

For each serving, cut 3 to 4 large croutons. Air-dry croutons several hours. In non-stick skillet, combine butter and garlic, and saute croutons until golden brown. Sprinkle with dried thyme to taste.

PRODUCED BY ROBIN TUCKER / FOOD STYLIST: EDENA SHELDON

BOWL FROM NANCY EPSTEIN GALLERY, BEVERLY HILLS