The Whiz Kid of Cheese Steaks

Most children don’t know what they want to do when they grow up. (Heck, I’m 40 and I still don’t know.) Philadelphia native Jake Lodish never had that problem. “When I was 6 years old, my family took a vacation to Disneyland. I remember standing in line at that Small World ride telling my relatives I wanted to open a submarine sandwich shop in California,” Lodish recalled.

The kid meant business. In 1993, at the age of 23, he opened Papa Jake’s, a small storefront restaurant in Manhattan Beach specializing in submarines and Philly cheese steaks.

Lodish was smitten by the sandwich life on family trips to Atlantic City, N.J., where they ate at Dino’s, a renowned submarine shop in nearby Margate. When he moved to California, he enlisted the aid of Dino’s son, Jim Tozzi, who helped him set up shop.

Fifteen types of submarines are offered, including the traditional Italian ($4.85 for a foot-long model, $8.70 for a 24-incher), made with provolone cheese, salami, capocollo and mortadella. The tuna and provolone sub ($5, $9.90) is based on Grandma Tozzi’s recipe, said to have been instrumental in influencing young Jake’s career. All subs are dressed with Italian cherry peppers, lettuce, tomatoes and onions.

Philly cheese steaks, a tradition in the City of Brotherly Love since the 1930s, dominate the hot side of the menu. The basic cheese steak ($5, $9.75) features thin slices of steak, cheese and sauteed onions. The Philly chicken cacciatore ($6, $11.80) is filled with slices of breast, mushrooms, onions and tomatoes.

Papa Jake’s is at 312 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach. (310) 796-0470. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday .