A Rice Guide

Even though Americans don’t eat as much rice as people in other countries--only one-tenth as much as in the Far East, for instance--we do use it in many ways. Rice shows up here as an ingredient in soups, casseroles, salads and desserts.

Rice is free of cholesterol, low in sodium, non-allergenic, readily digestible and reasonably priced. To assure you get the most from this grain, it’s necessary to understand some basic information and follow a few cooking guidelines.

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All rice can be broken down into three types:

* Long-Grain--Rice with long, slender grains, as much as four or five times longer than they are wide. When cooked, they tend to remain separate, making a light and fluffy dish.

* Medium- Grain--Rice with elongated grains, plump but not round. When cooked, it is more moist and tender than long-grain rice.

* Short-Grain--Rice that is almost round in shape. The short grains tend to cling together when cooked.

When any type of rice is harvested, it has an inedible hull or husk that surrounds the kernel. Depending on how the grain is treated, the final form can be either brown, white or parboiled (sometimes called converted) rice.

After sheller machines remove the hull, the grains are pale brown because of the bran layers still surrounding the kernel. Brown rice has a flavor frequently described as nutty and a texture that is slightly chewy or crunchy.

Because of the bran layer, brown rice is higher in fiber and oil content than white rice. It also requires longer cooking in more water. As the rice expands during cooking, the outside bran coating explodes and the bran adheres to the rice grain.

The hulled brown rice may be further treated by milling in machines that rub the grains together under pressure. This removes the bran layers by abrasion. The result is white or polished rice.

Much of today’s white rice is enriched, meaning that certain vitamins and minerals are added to replace those lost during milling. These include iron, niacin, thiamine and in some cases Vitamin D, riboflavin and calcium.

To produce parboiled rice, the grain is not passed through the sheller machines but subjected to a steam-pressure process. Then the rice, still containing the inedible husk, is dried and milled. The steaming gelatinizes the starch and ensures separateness of the grains. Parboiled rice takes a little longer to cook than regular white rice.

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There are thousands of varieties of rice grown around the world. Those most often found in American markets include:

* Basmati--a rice variety that originated in the foothills of the Himalayas. It has the aroma of buttered peanuts, a nutty flavor and fluffy texture.

* Texmati--a hybrid of long grain and basmati that is grown primarily in Texas. Its rich flavor and aroma is similar to basmati.

* Wehani--a rust-colored variety developed in California. The flavor is reminiscent of roasted chestnuts.

* Sweet Rice--an Asian variety of short-grain rice. It is also known as sticky or glutinous rice, although it actually isn’t sweet and doesn’t contain gluten. It has a high starch level and a very low level of amylose, which keeps other rice grains separate.

* Arborio--grown in Italy, it has short, fat grains. Most commonly used for making risotto, but it may also be simply boiled.

* Wild Rice--actually not a rice but the seed of an aquatic grass unrelated to rice. Originally it was gathered by American Indians, but now it is also being commercially cultivated.

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Storage:

White rice will keep almost indefinitely on the pantry shelf if stored in a tightly closed container that keeps out dust, moisture and other contaminants. Brown rice, because of the oil in the bran layer, has a limited shelf life and should be used within two to three months.

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Cooking:

Asian cooks rinse rice before cooking, stirring it with their fingers until the water runs clear. Rinsing is not recommended in the case of enriched rice, however, because it removes the dusting of thiamine, niacin and iron added after milling.

Rice can be cooked in an electric rice cooker, the oven or on top of the stove. For the latter method, use a heavy-bottomed saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Rice swells to two or three times its original size during cooking, so be sure to use a large enough pan.

Generally speaking, the larger the quantity of rice being cooked, the less water, proportionately, required. Older rice requires more water; long-grain rice more than short-grain rice.

The Chinese rule for cooking rice is to let the water cover the grains by a depth of one knuckle joint, but since hand sizes vary, it’s probably better to use the figure of slightly over an inch.

There are many variations, but one technique for preparing what the Chinese refer to as steamed rice is to bring the water and rice to a boil over medium heat, boil one minute, then reduce the heat to low, cover the pan and simmer the rice 18 minutes.

Rice is cooked when the liquid has been absorbed and there are steam holes. After cooking, allow the rice to stand, covered, seven to 10 minutes. Uncover and fluff with a fork before serving.

The American method for cooking long-grain rice is to place two cups of water in a saucepan, bring to a boil, then slowly stir in one cup of rice. When the water returns to a boil, cover the pan and simmer about 15 minutes, until the rice is tender. Let stand, covered, five minutes before serving.

If there are no directions on the package, cook parboiled rice slightly longer, increase water and cooking time for brown rice and use less water when cooking medium-grain rice.

Test rice for doneness by squeezing a grain between your fingers. It’s cooked when you don’t feel a hard core. When the grains are splayed out at the ends, the rice is overcooked and loses it’s desirable texture and flavor.

If the rice is done but the liquid has not been absorbed, uncover the pan and place over low heat for a few minutes until the liquid evaporates. You can also drain the rice, return it to the pan and toss with a fork over low heat.

When the water has boiled off and the rice is not yet tender, sprinkle a small amount of water over the rice and continue cooking.

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Rice may be cooked ahead or leftover rice may be stored in the refrigerator up to two days. To reheat:

* Saute lightly in butter or margarine, tossing and fluffing with a fork as it warms.

* Place the rice in the top of a double boiler. Sprinkle with a few drops of water, then fluff the rice with a fork as it heats over simmering water.

* To reheat rice cooked without any fat: Wrap in a damp kitchen towel, place in a colander and lower into a pan with a small amount of simmering water in the bottom. (The water should not touch the colander.) Cover the pan and steam the rice several minutes, until heated through.