Forever Plaid
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The Movie: “Rob Roy.”
The Setup: Early 18th-Century tale of Scottish hero of the people known as Rob Roy (Liam Neeson, pictured).
The Costume Designer: Sandy Powell, whose credits include “Interview With the Vampire,” “Orlando,” “The Crying Game,” “Caravaggio” and “Edward II.”
You Should Know: The Scottish man’s wardrobe staple is still a wonderful garment to behold. As Neeson demonstrates, the skirt (mid-knee was the typical length) was not only macho--particularly compared to the peacock-like breeches, tights, jackets and waistcoats worn by French and English noblemen--but also functional.
Before it evolved into its current cut during the Victorian Era, the kilt was one continuous bolt of fabric known as a plaid. Roy and his fellow Highlanders wrapped them around their waists, then tossed the excess over their shoulders, pinning it in place with a large brooch. If one were stranded in the wild, the plaid could be put into action as a blanket. As for Roy’s wife, Mary (Jessica Lange, pictured), her only bit of tartan is a faded shawl.
Historical Embellishment: Powell decided that, to modern eyes, men in kilts with bare legs “would have looked a bit daft,” so she put them in knee-high leather boots. Highlanders actually went barefoot while working the land; all the rain and mud would have made shoes pointless. When they did wear shoes, moccasins without socks were it.
Trivia: Roy and the Highlanders all wear muted tartans. Historically correct? No. The true colors would have incorporated the colors of the landscape, such as purple, pink, brown and green. “But I don’t think (director) Michael (Caton-Jones) was keen on that,” Powell said.
Indeed, the so-called feminine colors--pink, lilac and aqua--were reserved for the foppish and evil Cunningham (Tim Roth).
Inspiration: “Really, there’s very little on that period. It was very, very difficult to find any visual reference or descriptions for the Highlanders,” Powell said.
Sources: Tartans were woven on the isle of Islay in Scotland. Costumes were custom-made in London.
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