1995 Domaine de Durban Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise Rho^ne Valley (About $21)

Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise is the perfect wine for this time of year--a golden dessert wine that tastes like honeyed nectar. Domaine de Durban, a small family estate perched between the ancient Rho^ne Valley village of Beaumes-de-Venise and the cliffs of the Dentelles de Montmirail mountains, produces what has to be the definitive example. It’s an extravagantly scented, positively operatic wine, like a high C that can break glass.

Pair it with a cherry clafoutis. Or indulge in another of summer’s pleasures: Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise poured into the hollow of a chilled, ripe melon. Like most dessert wines, it should be served chilled. The Muscat also comes in half bottles.