1999 Calera Mills Vineyard Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir

Calera Wine Co.’s Josh Jensen is a pioneer who believed so strongly in Pinot Noir he wouldn’t stop looking until he found a vineyard site in the Gavilan Mountains 25 miles inland from the coast at Carmel that has limestone-rich soil reminiscent of Burgundy’s best vineyards. Obstinate, completely committed to this finicky grape, he has been consistently producing some of the best Pinot Noirs to come out of California. A disciple of Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac in Burgundy, Jensen founded Calera in 1974 and planted his first vines a year later. By now, he knows a lot about Pinot Noir. His 1999s are terrific, particularly the extraordinary Mills Vineyard. He’s capable of getting true Pinot Noir character in his wines, which is no mean feat.

This superb Pinot Noir has enticing aromas of berries and spice, brilliant fruit and a firm, built-to-last structure. Not much is left -- and if you see any of the 1998 still around, or the more expensive Jensen Vineyard, don’t pass up those bottles either.

S. Irene Virbila

Quick swirl

Region: Mt. Harland Viticultural Area, California

Price: About $37

Style: Burgundian

Food it goes with: Just about everything: roasted chicken, duck, quail, beef and particularly lamb.

Where you find it: Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Manhattan Liquor in Manhattan Beach, (310) 318-0109; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454, (800) 76WINEX. The wine is also available directly from the winery by calling (831) 637-9170