Jonathan Gold reviews Freedman’s

A potato latke crisped in a waffle iron is served with cured sea trout and a schmear of sour cream.  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times)

Dessert at Freedman’s: a chewy black and white cookie.  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times)

The Freedman’s Reuben served hot off the grill.  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times)

Jewish deli Freedman’s doesn’t just get creative with its dishes -- the wallpaper on the men’s restroom is worth a look or two.  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times)

Cured sea trout pairs with a crispy potato latke at Freedman’s.  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times)

The new Jewish deli Freedman’s straddles the Echo Park-Silver Lake border on Sunset Boulevard. The bar serves cocktails.  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times)

Freedman’s chef Liz Johnson prepares a half-sour salad.  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times)

Freedman’s chef Liz Johnson and owner Jonah Freedman serve up house-smoked pastrami, brisket and more at their new Jewish deli.  (Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times)