Photos: Aqui Es Texcoco in Commerce

The restaurant’s grilled quail, made with a house recipe that includes dark beer and spices, is similar to what a diner might find at Zankou Chicken.  (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

A plate of quesadillas -- lamb’s brain, left, Mexican corn truffle and zucchini -- feature mixtures that are typical of Mexico City cuisine.   (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

Pulque, an alcoholic beverage made from agave, is accompanied with strawberries.  (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

The Commerce location of Aqui Es Texcoco. The restaurant’s original outpost is in Tijuana.  (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

A cook holds up a plate of the restaurant’s famous lamb barbacoa.   (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

The quail is grilled until its skin is crisp.  (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

Teresa Alfaro, a waitress, attends to customers. Many customers order the lamb barbacoa without even glancing at the menu.   (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

A bowl of grasshoppers served with avocado slices.  (Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)