2003 Cantina Santad Vermentino di Sardegna ‘Cala Silente’

Giacomo Tachis, Italy’s first superstar enologist and architect of Antinori’s Tignanello, is consulting now that he’s retired -- and reveling in the chance to explore wine regions beyond Tuscany. One of the estates he advises is Cantina Santadi, a cooperative on the fiercely beautiful island of Sardinia, where Vermentino is the indigenous white grape.

The 2003 Vermentino di Sardegna “Cala Silente” is an expressive white wine with delicate floral and citrus aromas and a lively acidity. Round and ripe, it leaves an impression of pears on the palate. Here’s one more wine to add to your personal library of offbeat whites. It not only makes a fine aperitif, it’s also terrific with seafood pasta dishes, risotto or paella, steamed mussels and clams, or grilled fish.

S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Sardinia

Price: About $14

Style: Ripe and round with a lively acidity

Food it goes with: Seafood pasta or risotto, steamed shellfish, grilled fish.

Where you find it: Available at fine wine shops and

retailers